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Sunday, November 17, 2019

English Cornish Yarg Cheese

Sliced Cornish Yarg Cheese on a circular wooden chees board

Cornish Yarg cheese is produced in the English county of Cornwall.

Details: Cornish Yarg is a pasteurized cow's milk cheese.  Animal rennet is used to form the curds which are then pressed to remove the whey and water. After this process the pressed curds are placed in to round molds to form the cheese. The newly formed cheeses, which weigh about six pounds each, are covered with the fragrant leaves from local Cornish nettle plants. The cheeses are then ready to begin the aging process which creates a natural outer rind. The aging process lasts for a minimum of two months. Some Cornish Yarg cheese is produced without the nettle leave wrapping and it will have a grayish colored natural rind. This version may be a bit less expensive but it would be worth while to purchase the wrapped version if you have a choice.

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Flavor: The inner paste of Cornish Yarg is pale yellow and the inner paste is somewhat soft around the inner rind but it should not be oozy or runny. The rind of Cornish Yarg is edible but it is quite bitter so it is best to trim it off before serving. The nettle leaves impart an complex undertone flavor to the cheese that is peppery, grassy, herbaceous and lemony all at once. The cheese itself has a pleasant herbaceous fragrance.  You can serve Cornish Yarg as table cheese with fresh fruit or as a stand alone cheese for a snack.

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When shopping for Cornish Yarg check to make sure the inner paste is not hard or looks dried out. There should be no apparent signs of mold on the inner paste and no off smelling odors.

Amazon is not carrying this cheese so you will need to search it out in a good local cheese shop, Whole Foods or Wegmans. Cornish Yarg is usually distributed by England's Neal"s Yard Dairy so you may find it easier if you ask your cheese monger what brands of Neal's Yard cheese they carry.

Wine Paring: Dry white wines like California Chardonnay or German Riesling. It also goes well with a pint of English ale.



Monday, September 23, 2019

French Bleu d'Auvergne Blue Cheese

A half wheel of Bleu d'Auvergne cheese surrounded with green grapes and apples on a wooden cutting
Bleu d'Auvergne is a wonderful pasteurized cow's milk blue cheese produced in the Auvergne region of France.   Bleu d'Auvergne is an AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlle) name controlled cheese and this assures the quality and production methods that are used to produce it.

Details: The cows in the Auvergne region graze in verdant pastures and produce large quantities of top quality milk. The method and recipe for producing Bleu d'Auvergne is centuries old and has changed little over time but there are now large producers so this blue cheese is available almost everywhere. The cheese is made into six pound wheels and is wrapped in foil. The outer surface is not really considered to be a true rind so it is edible but it is quite salty The interior paste is white or tending to light beige and will have a high concentration of blue veins.

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Flavor: Bleu d"Auvergne is a mild blue cheese so it is not nearly as sharp as Roquefort or Spanish Cabrales. You will be able to pick out hints of grass and to a lesser extent a nutty undertone.

When shopping for Bleu d'Auvergne do not purchase any that show signs reddening, browning or cracks in the outer surface. In addition ask for a small sample, if the cheese feels overly soft or has a rancid or any other odor not buy it.

If you can not find Bleu d'Auvergne good sustitutes are Maytag Blue, Spanish Picon or Fourme d'Ambert.

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How to serve Bleu d'Auvergne: It is a great addition to garden salads or blended into a vinaigrette or made into a salad dressing. It is also wonderful as an after dinner cheese served with sweet fruits.

Wine Pairings: Full bodied Rhone reds, fruity whites, sweet Sauternes, Riesling or a Sauvignon Blanc

Tuesday, September 3, 2019

French Saint Marcellin Cheese

Aged Saint Marcellin wrapped in chestnut leavesSaint Marcellin cheese in an earthen crock
Saint Marcellin is a magnificent cow's milk cheese produced in the Dauphine region of France which is located above Provence. There are two versions that are produced, pasteurized and unpasteurized. The finished cheeses are small round 3oz disks. Both versions are excellent but when given a choice purchase the unpasteurized one.

Details: Saint Marcellin may come wrapped in chestnut leaves that have been dipped in white wine and tied with ribbon or raffia. The leaves are used to help ripen the cheese and they impart a fruity flavor to it. Most of the Saint Marcellin you will find in the US come without the chestnut leaf wrapping. It often comes in a ceramic or earthen crock type dish covered in plastic wrap with a label. When the cheese is young it will be crumbly and if it is wrapped the chestnut leaves will still be green. Many people enjoy it at this stage but an aged cheese will produce a much more pleasurable experience. As Saint Marcellin ages its  leaf wrapping will turn darker and become somewhat wet as the whey begins to weep out of the cheese. During this process it begins to soften and liquify but does not get runny.

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Flavor: Saint Marcellin is imported to the US as fresh or aged. If eaten at its fresh stage the flavor will be tart and somewhat sour and the paste will be somewhat crumbly. As the cheese ages and the leaves lose their green color it makes an exceptional transformation.

Saint Marcellin at this stage will have developed a creamy texture and a wonderful  fruity and nutty walnut flavor. It may also have acquired a few spots of blue mold, this not a bad thing, it is a sign of a mature cheese that is ready to be enjoyed..

As wonderful as the wrapped cheeses are the unwrapped variety is truly spectacular.  They have a very slight crusty cover which may have some blue mold on it.  As noted above this is not a sign of a cheese gone bad. Some Saint Marcellin will be labeled "cremier" these are produced  by small local dairies in small batches and may be hard to find in the US. Most of the Saint Marcellin found in the US is labeled "affine" indicating that it is aged or ripened.  Always try to find these versions, you will be amazed by their silky texture and strong walnut flavor, they are cheeses to be truly savored.

Serving and Storing: Saint Marcellin is wonderful as an appetizer with French olives and ham. It also preforms well with most salad courses and  as a dessert cheese with fresh sweet fruits. 

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When purchasing Saint Marcellin in the small crock press down on the plastic wrap to see if the cheese is soft or hard and buy accordingly. Always remove the plastic wrap as soon as you get it home. If you purchased a young cheese and want to let it age you can keep it in the crock but wrap it loosely in waxed paper or tin foil and store it the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator.  If it is aged follow the same procedure if you do not plan to eat it right away. Saint Marcellin is usually quite easy to find in most good cheese shops and at Wegmans or Whole Foods.

Wine Paring: Sweet dessert wines or any Rhone reds

Saturday, July 20, 2019

Spanish Mahon Cheese

In Spain Mahon is second in popularity next to Manchego, Spain's most famous Cheese. Mahon has been given Denomination of Origin ( D.O.) and is produced exclusively on the small island of Menorca off the coast of Spain in the Balearic Sea.  

Details: Mahon is produced in two versions, pasteurized which is factory made and unpasteurized which is farm made and considered to be artisanal. The fresh curd is chopped, then pressed to remove the whey and placed on square sheets of cloth. Each cloth is then gathered up by the corners and tied up in the center. This process forms a distinctive shaped square cheese with rounded edges. The newly formed cheeses are then ready to begin the aging process which can last up to two years. Mahon can be found in various stages of aging. Fresco is aged about two to three weeks, semi Curado is aged for two to three months, Viejo is aged for six months and Anejo is aged from eighteen months to two years. The aging process produces an inedible hard smooth light golden rind which darkens as it ages.  The inner paste is light amber when young and progresses to dark gold at the Viejo and Anejo stages. Older versions with also have many small holes throughout the paste.

Spanish Cheese Assortment

Flavor, Serving and Storing: The overall flavor of Mahon is determined by its age. The fresco version has a mild nutty flavor and  is very aromatic. As its age progresses its flavor will become bolder and more complex and gives off a sharp, salty, buttery flavor with a hint of nuts. Mahon has a pleasant fruity aroma at all ages. A young Mahon should be wrapped in plastic wrap and kept in the refrigerator's vegetable bin, aged Mahon can be wrapped in tin foil and kept refrigerated where it should last at least two weeks. Mahon can be served thinly sliced, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with tarragon and black pepper. It can also be served sliced with thinly sliced smoked ham in a sandwich or as an appetizer with fresh sweet fruit.


Purchasing: When buying Mahon try to find ones that are aged at least two months. If you can find a Viejo or Anejo version do not hesitate to purchase it because they are quite uncommon and you will be in for tasty surprise. Do not purchase Mahon if it is overly soft, discolored, looks dried with a cracked rind, or has mold on the inner paste. You can buy Mahon in most good local cheese shops, Whole Foods, Wegmans or online at Amazon.

Wine Paring: Mahon pairs well with all red Spanish wines and surprisingly well with beer.

Monday, May 27, 2019

Swiss Emmental Cheese


A large wedge of Swiss Emmental cheese on a wooden table
SwissEmmental is an unpasteurized partially skimmed cow's milk cheese that produced in both France and Switzerland. Both of these cheeses are world renowned for their excellent flavor and the iconic holes in their paste. The holes are created by bacteria that give off carbon dioxide gas which expands during the aging process forming pockets within the paste.

Details: Swiss Emmental is made in the Emme River valley in the Canton of Bern and is known as an alpine style cheese.  Animal rennet is used to form the curds which are heated to create the desired texture. After draining, the curds are manually pressed to remove any remaining water and whey. They are then placed in molds and aged for at least six months. The cheeses that are produced are massive with weights ranging between 175lbs to 220lbs and are about 9 inches thick. The rind will be flat and smooth and  have a beige or slight yellow color and the red Swizerland trademark stamped on its top.Swiss Emmental has a low salt content and no salt is added to the curds during production. Any saltiness that may be noticed is produced by the brine bath which helps to form the rind. The interior paste will be a pale yellow and have random and various sized holes throughout. The flavor of Swiss Emmental expands on the palate and will reveal a nice nutty flavor and mild bite on the finish.

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A full wheel and a half cut wheel of French Emm ental Cheese
Details: French Emmental is produced in the Jura mountains and is also considered an alpine style cheese. It is made  with partially skimmed raw cow's milk. The methods of production for French and Swiss Emmental are identical the main difference is that French Emmental has varying ages and has a more complex flavor The young age is mild and is best for fondue, mid-aged has more complex flavor and the extra aged version has a full bodied nutty flavor and works well melted over gratins or potatoes and is an excellent table cheese.  Authentic French Emmental will be stamped with "Emmental Francais Grand Cru on its rind but it is much less common in the United States than its Swiss sister.


Overall Emmental is a great cheese when thinly sliced and used on sandwiches or shaved over salads. It also goes well with most fruits, meats and crusty breads. It is often the major cheese used in fondue.

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When shopping for Emmental do not purchase any that are significantly weeping its butterfat or that has any mold on the rind or the interior paste. Emmental dries out fast when sliced thin so try to avoid any that has been pre-sliced and left to sit out. It is best to keep it in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator wrapped tightly in plastic wrap. Try to find  authentic Emmental and stay away from the banal pasteurized domestic versions like and other pasteurized imposters. Keep in mind that authentic Emmental is not sold by brand names.

Wine Paring: Light fruity reds like Beaujolais and Rhone reds or spicy whites like any Alsace and dry Vouray for French Emmental.

Swiss Emmental pairs well with light fruity reds like French Bandolor big reds like Saint-Joseph and light fruity whites like Swiss Fendant or Muscadet.

Tuesday, May 14, 2019

Garrotxa: A Superb Goat Cheese From Spain

Halved and sliced pieces of Spanish Garrotxa goat cheese on wooden cutting board.
Garrotxa  (ga-ROW-sha) is an exceptional goat cheese from the Catalonian region of Spain. Garrotxa is produced by using pasteurized milk from free range goat herds that feed on the local grasses and herbs. It is normally aged for three weeks but can be aged up to seven weeks. Since it is pasteurized there are no United States importing restrictions on it, however, it is somewhat difficult to find in the US. It should be able to be purchased from  a good cheese shop that carries a wide variety of Spanish cheeses or check out Whole Foods or Wegmans markets.

Details and Flavor: Garrotxa is a small cheese, about 2lbs, with a very thin  gray moldy micro-fiber like inedible rind that should be removed. The interior has white paste that is somewhat moist, and dense but not hard, older versions will be drier. The flavor is mild and not overtly goaty but does possess  nice herb flavors that represent Thyme and Rosemary with a nutty overtone. Garrotxa melts well so you can experiment with it in your recipes. Try spreading some Spanish quince paste (membrillo) or honey on a slice of Garrotxa as an afternoon snack.

Spanish Membrillo Quince Paste 

Wild Oak Honey Imported From Spain

Notes: When shopping for Garrotxa do not purchase any that are cracked or have any mold on the INTERIOR  paste. Garrotxa will stay fresh once it is cut for about two weeks if kept alone wrapped in paper and covered with tin foil in a vegetable bin of the refrigerator. Garottax can be served with crusty bread, cured meats, sweet fruits and soft nuts. It is also a great table cheese eaten by itself, saved over salads or melted over potatoes or other vegetables.

Wine Pairings: Spanish red wines like Rioja or white wines like Pinot Gris or Chardonnay

Monday, March 25, 2019

Italian Parmesan Cheese


A wedge and grated Parmesan cheese on a sheet of white paper
Parmesan is one of the world's best known cheeses and is officially known as Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. I will using it's more common name throughout this discussion.  Parmesan production dates back to the 13th century when it was made by Benedectine and Cistercian monks. Thankfully modern methods of cheese production have not altered this traditional hand crafted masterpiece and it is considered, by most cheese experts, to be the world's best cheese. Parmesan is DOP certified and can only be produced in the small area bordered by the provinces of Bologna, Mantua, Modena, Parma and Reggio Emilia. Therefore the total production is moderate in relative terms but is of an extraordinarily high quality and consistency. The wheels that are produced usually weigh in at 80lbs.

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 The Santa Rita Co-op Dairy, which is located near Modena, produces only DOP Certified Organic Parmesan cheese. The following description of production relates to this particular Dairy. There are eight family farms incorporated into the Santa Rita Dairy Co-op. These farms are in the towns of Pompenno and Selva which are located in the Modena Appennini mountains. The altitude here varies from 2000 feet to 2400 feet and provides warm days, cool nights and lush farmland for grazing cows and goats. Parmigiano Reggiano is know also as a hard mountain style cheese. The Santa Rita Co-op was certified Organic 10 years ago and has been exclusively producing high quality hand crafted organic Parmesan cheese. The Co-op produces ten 80 pound wheels of organic cheese per day that are marked with the Consorzio de Parmigiano-Reggiano registration number 2895, this number identifies and certifies the producer. All of the cows in the co-op are fed only certified Organic grass and hay that is grown on the eight individual farms. The processing plant is centrally located near all of the farms so the milk does not  travel long distances to be processed. All of these factors contribute to a superior final product.

Details:  Each wheel of Parmesan is made from two separate milkings. The evening milking is poured into large containers and allowed to rest. In the morning the cream that has risen to the top is skimmed off and the remaining milk is then combined with the morning milk and allowed to form curds. This combination of milk is then heated at 90 degrees and the whey is separated out by a vigorous turning action. The remaining curds are then reheated and then allowed to rest and cool for 30 minutes. Next the curds are placed in cloth bags to cool and drain. The cooled curds are then placed in the traditionally shaped wooden molds and pressed to expel any leftover whey and to form the cheese. The pressed cheeses are then immersed in a brine bath for 21 days. The brine bath allows the outer rind to form and harden and starts the aging process. The new cheeses are then rinsed and cleaned and then allowed to age for 30 months in climate controlled "warehouses". This long aging process allows the cheese to fully develop its legendary flavor.The finished cheese will have a hard outer rind that is considered inedible, however it can be cut up and added to soups or broths to add extra body and flavor to them. Once cut open the interior will have a straw color that is hard and somewhat flinty. 

 Flavor: An aged Parmesan cheese will have a mild aroma but an extraordinary full and complex flavor. Subtle flavors such as the spices nutmeg and ginger, a mild salty hint, and a nutty flavor like walnuts, can be noted. Parmesan is considered to be a "grana" or granular cheese meaning that when grated it will produce fines grains. Parmesan is normally thought of and used for grating over pasta dishes but it is also a great table cheese that when well aged will melt in your mouth and allow its full flavor to expand. In Italy it is often served at the beginning of a main meal with figs, ripe melon or grapes. As an antipasto try it with prosciutto drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, it also works well sliced in garden or vegetable salads. The fat content of Parmigiano is quite low at about 28% to 32%.


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When shopping for Parmesan look for large portions of the whole wheel and ask that your piece be cut from there. Try to avoid Parmesan that is pre-cut into smaller pieces and wrapped in plastic wrap. Although it is hard to ruin this cheese it is always better to get the freshest piece possible. However if allowed to dry out it will become rock hard and will have little or no flavor. Ask for a sample if you are unsure of its quality. Do not grate this cheese and then store it in the refrigerator because it will rapidly lose its flavor, therefore you should only grate what you know you will use. Store your larger pieces in the refrigerator wrapped in a damp piece of cheese cloth and aluminum foil. Any mold that may form can be scrapped off without any damage to the rest of the cheese. You can rub a little olive oil on the exposed faces of the cut cheese to inhibit the formation of mold on the surface of the cheese itself. Any mold that may form will only be on the oil and can simply be rubbed or washed off.

Substitutes for Parmesan cheese: In reality there is no true substitute for true Italian Parmesan cheese. However, if you are looking for acceptable alternatives try Grana Padano which is less expensive and somewhat less flavorful or
Fontina Val d'Aosta

Wine parings: Chianti Reserva, Brunello, Barolo, Barbaresco, Salice Salentino, Valpolicella or with a dessert wine like Moscato or Vin Santo.



Saturday, March 9, 2019

Mascarpone Flavor And Uses

two gobblets filled with layers of strawberries and mascarpone
Mascarpone in the strictest sense is not  really a cheese since it is not made with rennet or any other starter to form curds. It's production is quite simple. The cream from cow's milk is poured into cheese cloth or muslin bags and lemon juice is poured over the cream and it is left to drain. The lemon juice contains citric acid which removes the whey in the cream. After the whey has been expelled the coagulated mass of high lactose heavy cream is left in a cool room for 2 days. The result is a milky white soft and smooth cream.

Mascarpone owes a lot of it's popularity from being the main ingredient in the ever popular dessert tiramisu. It's  production began in the Lombardy region of Northern Italy but it is such a simple "cheese" to make that it is now made almost everywhere.


Flavor and uses: Mascarpone has a buttery lactic sweet taste, and is not salty or acidic. As in it's production it has a simple almost neutral flavor that does not overpower a recipe. However mascarpone shines as an ingredient and it can be used to thicken soups or pasta sauces. It can also be blended with fresh herbs to be used as a dip, spread on croissants or crusty bread or as a simple dessert dolloped on top of sweet fruits and drizzled with honey. Mascarpone has a very short shelf life after it's container has been opened so plan on trying to use it as quickly as possible.

 Substitutes for Mascarpone that would work in similar ways are English clotted cream and crème fraiche. Clotted cream might need to be thickened to work in some recipes and crème fraiche has a slight acidic tang so be aware of that when planning on using it in recipes that tend to be sweet.

Mascarpone can be purchased in almost every supermarket or any local specialty food store. When shopping for it do not buy any that are near or past the expiration date. If you open the container and it tastes bitter discard it because it is past it's usability.

Monday, February 25, 2019

An Easy Vegetable Salad Recipe Using Sliced Parmesan Cheese

A platter with a summer salad and sliced Parmesan cheese


Another Great Recipe using Parmigiano-Reggiano
(Parmesan) Cheese

This is a colorful salad that is light and refreshing. It is easy to prepare and is nice to serve during the summer as a salad course or a midday treat with a nice Italian wine.


Prep time 30 min. Serves 6
Ingredients

1 lb of cleaned beets without the tops
3 oranges peeled and separated or sliced
12 leaves from hearts of Romaine lettuce
1/3 cup of cleaned walnuts
3 Tbsp. of orange juice
1 tsp. of lemon juice
1/4 tsp. of salt or to taste
3 Tbsp. of walnut oil or extra virgin olive oil
2-3oz of Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan) cheese slivered as thin as possible (use a vegetable peeler)

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Prep and Cooking

1) Boil or steam the beets until they are tender, let cool and then pat dry and slice thin
2) Place 2 leaves of Romaine lettuce on each plate
3) Arrange the beet slices and the orange sections in an overlapping pattern over the lettuce
4) Place the walnuts in the oven and toast until slightly golden brown (about 10 min.)
5) When ready finely chop the walnuts and sprinkle over the beets and oranges
6) Whisk the orange and lemon juices with the salt. Then add the walnut or olive oil while continuing to whisk the mixture.
7) Pour the dressing over each salad
8) Arrange the cheese slivers in a circle around the outside of the salad
9) Season with fresh ground black pepper


This wonderful salad is complimented by a glass of wine like Chianti Riserva, Barolo or Barbaresco

Friday, February 8, 2019

Hirtenkase A Great German Mountain Style Cheese

a precut wedge of German Hirtenkase cheese
I took a Rhine river cruise in Germany with my family and enjoyed it immensely. While on board ship the topic of Oktoberfest was brought up several times by our fellow shipmates. German beer was the focal point of most of these conversations but I was surprised to hear several people rave about German cheeses. Now being a cheese monger I am always looking for new and exciting cheeses to sample and hopefully to import back into the US. Our host and guide, after hearing our cheese conversation provided us with a truly great cheese named Hirtenkase which translates loosely as shepherd cheese.

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Details: Hirtenkase is produced during the summer months in the Allgau Mountains of Germany. The dairy farmers in this region allow their cows to eat only fresh mountain grass during the summer and hay during the winter, no silage, therefore they produce a very high grade of milk. This system of pure grazing and cheese production is similar to the one employed by Swiss dairy farmers. Hirtenkase can truly be considered a great mountain style cheese and can proudly stand next to Gruyere, Emmentaler and Fontina Val D'Aosta

Flavor: When aged it has a hard outer rind and the interior paste is hard and flinty with an orange tint. It has a slight citrus/ apple aroma and nutty and butterscotch flavor that lingers on the palate, I personally think that it has a much deeper flavor than French Comte 


The Hirtenkase cheese that is produced in the summer starts arriving in small quantities beginning in late September and its availability ebbs during late March, so now would be a great time to search it out. Hirtenkase is a great table cheese and can be served with grapes , figs, dates and nuts. Also try shaving it over a salad for a nice appetizer, melted over vegetables or for fondue. Check out this link for a great Hirtenkase recipe .

As for wine pairings serve it with a good Merlot or any big red German wine . It also goes well with good hearty German beers during Oktoberfest.