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Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Morbier A Classic French Cheese


A photo of a wheel of Morbier cheese with a wedge cut out
Morbier is a cow's milk cheese that is named after the town of Morbier. .Morbier produced in the Jura region and has been given AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlle) name control. It is defined by the thin dark layer of vegetable ash through the center of the paste. This cheese's origin is very humble and it's creation may even be considered to be an afterthought. Traditionally, during the production of Comte some curd would be left over and to preserve it for the next day. The cheese makers would press the curds in the molds and then cover them with vegetable ash to prevent the formation of a rind. The following day new curd would be placed on top of the ash layer forming a complete wheel of cheese. The wheels were then lightly pressed and washed with brine to form the rind. The washing process creates a moist outer rind that has a pungent aroma. Yes this can be considered a "stinky cheese". Today Morbier is made from only one days production and the ash layer is added to keep the traditional appearance alive. The finished wheels are then aged for a least 60 days.

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Morbier is sold in the United States as both a raw milk and pasteurized cheese. The raw milk version has much more flavor and is the much better choice. Both versions should have a paper label on them that notes that  it is Jura Morbier. This cheese has a smooth, moist, yellow rind that is inedible. Once you get past the moderate stink factor the inner paste is light yellow and semi-soft with a buttery mild flavor, a nutty finish and a slight tang. The ash layer is plainly visible through the center of the cheese but does not impart any flavor to the cheese. Do not let the smell of this cheese stop you from trying it, be bold and you will be rewarded by it's wonderful flavor.

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When shopping for this cheese always stay away from those that appear to have a cracked rind, a dry looking inner paste or look slimy. Morbier does have a moderate stink factor but stay away from any that smell rancid or like ammonia.

Serve Morbier with sandwich meats on crusty bread or melt it over potatoes or rice dishes. It is also a nice alternative for fondue and cheeseburgers.

Store this cheese in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator wrapped in aluminum foil and placed in a Ziploc bag.
 
Wine Paring: A good Pinot Noir, cru Beaujolais or Gewürztraminer.

Monday, August 1, 2011

Serra da Estrela The King Of Portuguese Cheese



a young and oozy version of Serra da Estrela cheese
A photo of a wedge of aged Serra da Estrela cheeseSerra da Estrela is a sheep's milk cheese that has been made for centuries by the shepherds in the Portuguese province of Beira. The sheep here graze in this mountainous region on wild flowers brambles and grass and produce a milk that is thick and aromatic. This cheese has been given D.O.P certification and is made under stringent rules that govern it's area and method of production.

Details:  The methods of production may seem archaic but they allow for the creation of a truly magnificent cheese. First, the raw milk is coagulated with cardoon thistle and salt no animal rennet is used. The newly formed curds are separated by hand and allowed to dry and age for a minimum of thirty days. This process produces small quantities of a cheese that has a soft, smooth, thin, straw colored rind. The young cheeses will have a white or slight yellow interior paste that is gooey or runny but as it ages it will become firmer but not hard. This cheese is, for the most part, spreadable but traditionally the thin rind is cut open and the soft paste is scooped out with pieces of bread.

Flavor: It has an herbaceous flavor and a finish that has hints of burnt toffee This flavor is enhanced as the cheese ages. It should be noted that the cardoon thistle imparts a somewhat bitter flavor but it is not overpowering or unpleasant.

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When shopping for this cheese you will find it wrapped in cloth giving it a very artisinal appearance and each small cheese will weigh about 2 pounds. However it will most likely not be available for sampling so look for signs of dryness or cracking in the rind as these are signs that it is too old. Serra da Estrela is only produced from November to March so it will be difficult to find as it sells out quickly. Serra da Estrela can be purchased at Whole Foods or Wegmans.

Wine Pairing: Light crisp Portuguese whites or soft to medium bodied Portuguese reds.
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Thursday, July 14, 2011

Italian Ubriaco di Raboso The Drunken Cow Cheese


a wheel ofubriaco di raboso cheeses with a wedge cut out
Ubriaco di Raboso is a wine soaked cow's milk cheese that is made only in the Treviso region of Italy. The English translation of ubriaco is drunk or drunken and this cheese can be thought of as the "Drunken Cow" cheese with an obvious nod to the Spanish "Drunken Goat" cheese. As legend has it the origins of this cheese go back to World War 1 when Italian farmers in the Piave River area hid their wheels of cheese in barrels of fermenting grape juice to prevent invading armies from stealing them. Today the Master Affineur Antoinio Carpenedo and his company La Casearia Carpenedo has brought the legend to reality with this masterful cheese.

Details: This is a semi-hard raw cow's milk cheese that is pressed but not cooked. It is aged for six months in Mr.Carpenedo's cellars and them immersed in Raboso grape must for several weeks. During the immersion period the cheese absorbs the grape must flavor, aroma and its deep ruby red color. The resulting cheese has a pale yellow interior paste with small holes and hints of red color at the inner surface of the rind. 

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Flavor:The flavor has hints of black berries and sour cherries and finishes with a pleasant mild peppery zing.
This is a wonderful table cheese that should be served with a meal as a cheese course. It also shines as an addition to salads, thinly sliced and added to a roasted vegetable sandwich or served with grapes or figs and a crusty bread. You should store this cheese in the lowest area of your refrigerator wrapped in waxed paper or aluminum foil.

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Wine Paring: Merlot, Cabernet, Fragola, Sauvignon or Verduzzo It is perfect with the bubbly Prosecco
 
For information on other La Casearia Brand cheeses go to :
http://www.lacasearia.com
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