Brindamour A Wonderful Herb Covered Sheep's Milk Cheese

Brindamour

Brin d'Amour

Brindamour is an herb covered sheep's milk cheese produced on the island of Corsica. It is also known by the name Fleur du Maquis (flower of the maquis) which references the ubiquitous brambly underbrush that covers the island. This cheese is Corsica's most famous cheese and is made entirely by small independent farms and dairies. It is transported in bulk to the major markets on the French mainland for distribution around the world. Brin d'Amour is usually made from unpasteurized sheep's milk but the cheeses you will find in the United States will almost always be the pasteurized version due to its short aging time. These versions are usually called Fleur du Maquis . Both versions are very good so this is not a major issue.

Details: Brindamour is a rindless cheese that is densely covered with dried herbs which impart their flavors to the cheese. It is shaped into round edged squares or round disks that weigh about 1.25 to1.75lbs each. The types of herbs used varies by the producer but they are always locally grown. The most popular herbs being used are rosemary, thyme, and savory, in addition to juniper berries, and coriander seeds. 

Flavor: When Brindamour arrives in the US it is young and has been aged for about two weeks. The inner paste will be pure white, soft and moist but not wet and will have a mild flavor. It can be bought this way, but many cheese sellers let it age for one to two months to develop its true flavor. At one month the interior paste will be bone white and a bit runny and will have taken on a nutty sheepy flavor. If you find Brin d'Amour with faded and dried out herbs it will feel harder because the interior paste has thickened. At this point it will be close to two months old and will have lost most of its moisture. The flavor will have evolved and will now be much stronger but not extremely sheepy and the herb flavor will be more pronounced. This is a great cheese at this stage. 

The entire cheese is edible but the coating of herbs can be tough to chew through so just scrape them off. You may see spots of mold on older versions but they can easily be scraped off. 

French Cheese Sampler At Amazon

When shopping for Brindamour ask your cheese retailer approximately how old the cheese is so you can get the age that you want. Remember all stages of ripening are wonderful and you may want to try them all to see which ones you prefer. This is a hearty cheese but ask for a sample to see if the age is right for you. Do not be turned off by the faded color of the herbs or specks of mold, as noted above this is a natural process of aging and it will give you an indication as to how old it might be.  NOTE: You may also find another Corsican cheese like Brindamour named Niolo, it is not very common but a few really good gourmet cheese shops may some in stock.

Serve Brindamour at lunchtime as a salad course that contains olives, tomatoes, ripe fresh peppers and savory greens. This is also a great table cheese served with a glass of wine.

Wine Pairing:  Sharp earthy reds from Corsica like Sciacarello and Patrimonio if you can not find them look for similar reds from France and Italy.

Swiss Raclette The Famous Swiss Melting Cheese

The name Raclette traces its name back to the French word racler meaning "to scrape". Swiss Raclette in essence is really a group of similar cheeses that are produced in small towns and dairies. The names of the cheeses reflect the names of these towns and dairies . Raclette cheeses are made from raw unpasteurized cows milk although there are some pasteurized versions available. The milk for Raclette comes from cows that graze on grass and flowers in the high alpine meadows of Switzerland and is considered a mountain style cheese. 

 Details: The production of Raclette is localized and is made using time honored traditions. The fresh curds are gathered and placed into hand carved wooden molds and pressed to expel the excess water and whey. The newly formed cheeses are then soaked in a brine solution and brushed with a yeast solution which helps to form the hard outer rind. They are then placed on wooden benches and left to age for three to six months in local cellars. The aged cheeses do not have any holes and will have a faint yellow inner paste that is semi-firm and an inedible dark beige rind. The wooden molds used to age the cheeses leave impressions of the name of the town or dairy where they were produced on the rind.

Flavor: Raclette has a stronger flavor and is smoother and less hard than Gruyere. The flavor is  nutty and not too salty however longer aged versions are sharper and more pronounced.

When shopping for Raclette look for a dark beige rind that does not look dry and is not cracked or shows signs of reddening or mold. Try to find cheeses from the canton of Valais with the names Bagnes, Conches, Gomser, and Orsieres on the rind. Swiss Raclette is more difficult to find than the French version but it is worth looking for. Raclette can be found in most cheese shops or on line at Amazon. Raclette Cheese

Since Raclette is produced as a 12 pound wheel it is usually bought in smaller wedges and heated in the oven or on a Raclette grill. When the cheese is melted in the rind it is shaved onto casseroles or hot vegetable dishes. Raclette is often a component of cheese blends for fondue along with Gruyere, Emmental or Appenzeller and is also a wonderful table cheese  served with fresh fruit.

Wine Pairings: white Swiss Fendant or light fruity reds or any Beaujolais.

Alpha Tolma Vermont Alpine Style Cheese

Over the recent extended Memorial Day weekend I had the pleasure of visiting the Jasper Hill Cellars and Creamery in Greensboro Vermont.The facility is state of the art and simply quite amazing. I was truly impressed by the attention to detail throughout all the stages of production and aging  of their cheeses and the mandatory sanitary procedures throughout the facility.

I will be reviewing all of the cheeses that are produced or aged at Jasper Hill. I would like to note that all of these cheeses are wonderful examples of artisan cheese production and affinage.

The Cellars at Jasper Hill is an innovative 22,00 sq ft underground facility. The Cellars were constructed for the purpose of providing affinage, or aging expertise, as well as distribution and marketing services for local cheesemakers so that they may access the burgeoning market for artisan cheese nationwide.

I would like to thank the marketing team at Jasper Hill for allowing me to liberally use their ad copy and photos.

ALPHA TOLMAN is named for a philanthropic dairy farmer who built the Greensboro library in 1900. Alpha's grandfather, Enoch, was one of the town's original settlers. Alpha's namesake cheese is made in a satellite creamery, located within the Vermont Food Venture Center in Hardwick, VT - a facility designed to incubate value-added projects and enrich our agricultural economy.

Details: True to the Alpine cheese making tradition Alpha Tolman is a cooked raw milk cheese. Rennet is added to the milk to form the curd, which is then pressed into molds to expel any whey that is left. The newly formed cheeses are then washed in brine which helps to form the rind and gives them a funky edge. The formed cheeses are then set to age between 8 to 11 months in the Cellars humidity and temperature controlled cave.. Alpha Tolman has a buttery, nutty and fruity flavor when young, developing bold meaty, caramelized onion flavors as it matures. The inner paste has a light straw color and has a thin outer rind. The texture is dense and pliant, easy to cut and ideal for melting.

When shopping for Alpha Tolman look for a cheese that is not dry or cracked as this is a sign of a wonderful cheese past it's prime. Alpha Tolman can be found in good specialty cheese shops and possibly in Whole Foods.  The texture, aesthetic, and flavor make Alpha Tolman an ideal choice for fans of Appenzeller (or fondue!).For a satisfying meal, follow the lead of Swiss/French raclette – melt onto a serving of fingerling potatoes, cured meat and natural sour pickles.

Wine Pairing: Big jammy New York reds with a younger version or a locally brewed porter or ale with a more mature cheese.