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Saturday, April 25, 2020

Ossau-Iraty The Pride Of The Pyrenees Mountains

If you are looking for something different than Manchego then try this great French sheep's milk cheese. Ossau-Iraty received it’s Appellation D'Origne Controlle (A.O.C) in 1980 for the unpasteurized sheep’s milk version of this cheese. This wonderful sheep's milk  cheese is produced in the area in and around the Pyrenees Mountains which form the border with Spain. Unfortunately the unpasteurized milk version is not allowed to be imported into the United States. Luckily the pasteurized versions that are imported to the United States are excellent. So with that said we will be discussing the pasteurized version as we proceed.

Details: Ossau-Iraty is produced from mid to late December, which is the birthing season, until mid July when the fertility cycle begins again and all milking and cheese making ends.The local sheep herds are brought up into the mountains to eat the aromatic wild grasses and flowers during this time. Ossau-Iraty is usually produced in small village cooperatives according to an ancient recipe that has been passed down for centuries. Brebis is the French word for sheep so you may see the words "fromage de brebis"  printed on the labels of Ossau-Iraty.

 First the freshly made curds are pressed into plastic molds to remove the water and whey. The new cheeses are then stacked on top of each other to press out any remaining water. They are then placed in a brine bath for two hours. Once the brine bath is complete the cheeses are placed in cold rooms or caves to start the aging process. The new cheeses are turned and hand rubbed with salt for about two months. As the cheeses continue to age they will then be rubbed with brine soaked cloths for another four months. 

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 Flavor: Aged Ossau-Iraty will have a natural rind that is inedible. The inner paste will be semi firm and have a slight yellow hue, it may also weep some of its butterfat (this is not a bad thing). Ossau-Iraty will  have a flavor that is nutty, fruity and a hint of olives.

When shopping for Ossau-Iraty avoid any that have a cracked rind, fissures in the paste or a gray tinge. If you see butterfat pooling or weeping out of it, as noted above, this not a cheese that has gone bad, but it is a sign that it is quite ripe. If you purchase it in this condition you should eat it quickly and do not store it the refrigerator for too long. You should be able to readily find the pasteurized version of Ossau-Iraty in any good local cheese shop, Wegmans or Whole Foods  Try to find the following brands Etorki, Onetik, Prince de Claverolle  or Ishtara they are always consistently excellent. If you can not find Ossau-Iraty good substitutes are Idiazabal or Roncal if you are looking for great sheep milk cheeses

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Serving Ossau-Iraty: This wonderful cheese does well being served with raw vegetables, sweet peppers, French Ham and crusty breads. It is also nice slivered and tossed with tomatoes ground black pepper then drizzled with a good olive oil. Try serving it with sliced apples and pears as an after dinner treat.

Wine Pairing: Ossau-Iraty pairs well with a good Bordeaux and Rhone reds.


Friday, April 3, 2020

Fourme d'Ambert A Bold French Blue Cheese



Well my friends it has been a while since I posted anything so I am going to try and make it up to you by reviewing Fourme d'Ambert another great French blue cheese. If you are tired of Roquefort try this one !

 
Fourme d'Ambert is an exceptional French blue cheese that is made in the area around the town of Ambert in the Auvergne region of France.  Fourme Ambert has been given its much deserved  Appelation d'Origine Controlee (AOC) certification. This certification ensures that the production of the cheese  meets the standards set forth by the commission.  

Details: Fourme d'Ambert  is produced using pasteurized  cow's milk. When the curds have formed, and the whey has been drained, they are pressed to remove any left over water. After this process the dried curds are placed into wooden molds that will form the eight inch high cylinders. The new cheeses are then pierced to allow for the growth of bacteria that create the wonderful bluing. The aging process can last from 2 to 4 months and will produce a brownish or grayish rind. Some purists say the natural rind is edible however my personal opinion is it is inedible. Some of the Fourme d'Ambert that is wrapped in foil will have a smooth or very thin rind which can be more palatable.  So it is basically each individual's choice.

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Flavor and Appearance: Fourme d'Ambert  will have a white inner paste which shows liberal veins of bluing. The paste is compact, smooth and notably not crumbly. The cheese will present a semi sharp flavor that is not salty and will  have a woody and big fruity aroma. Try to find an longer aged cheese if you prefer the sharper blue cheese flavor and a younger version if you prefer a bit milder flavor, either way you will not be disappointed. Fourme d'Ambert would be a comparable substitute for British Stilton since they are both made from almost the same recipe however Stilton is more crumbly.


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Shopping for Fourme d'Ambert:  When looking to purchase this wonderful French blue cheese  check carefully for the following telltale signs of a cheese gone bad: a dried out appearance, a cracked rind, bitter taste or a gray interior paste.  Industrial dairies in France are now producing some of the Fourme d'Ambert that is being imported to the United States. While these are not truly bad cheeses they are notably inferior when it comes to depth of flavor and aroma. You can tell these cheeses by their low levels of bluing and a tinge of yellow in the paste. So when you are out looking for an authentic Fourme d'Ambert try to find the La Memee or Roussel brands. Your best bet to find it is in a good local cheese shop, Wegmans, or Whole Foods. Ask your cheesemonger for a small sample to taste to see if it is what you are looking for.

Serving: Fourme d'Ambert  enhances any salad or  goes well with mixed sweet fruit and especially  with fresh apples. It also works nicely as a nice after dinner treat. To add an interesting twist to your favorite pasta dish try using this blue cheese instead of Romano or Parmesan.

Wine Paring: Fourme d'Ambert goes well with bold Rhone, Burgundy and Bordeaux  wines.  Note that this cheese is good enough to elevate a weaker red wine.          





Sunday, November 17, 2019

English Cornish Yarg Cheese

Sliced Cornish Yarg Cheese on a circular wooden chees board

Cornish Yarg cheese is produced in the English county of Cornwall.

Details: Cornish Yarg is a pasteurized cow's milk cheese.  Animal rennet is used to form the curds which are then pressed to remove the whey and water. After this process the pressed curds are placed in to round molds to form the cheese. The newly formed cheeses, which weigh about six pounds each, are covered with the fragrant leaves from local Cornish nettle plants. The cheeses are then ready to begin the aging process which creates a natural outer rind. The aging process lasts for a minimum of two months. Some Cornish Yarg cheese is produced without the nettle leave wrapping and it will have a grayish colored natural rind. This version may be a bit less expensive but it would be worth while to purchase the wrapped version if you have a choice.

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Flavor: The inner paste of Cornish Yarg is pale yellow and the inner paste is somewhat soft around the inner rind but it should not be oozy or runny. The rind of Cornish Yarg is edible but it is quite bitter so it is best to trim it off before serving. The nettle leaves impart an complex undertone flavor to the cheese that is peppery, grassy, herbaceous and lemony all at once. The cheese itself has a pleasant herbaceous fragrance.  You can serve Cornish Yarg as table cheese with fresh fruit or as a stand alone cheese for a snack.

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When shopping for Cornish Yarg check to make sure the inner paste is not hard or looks dried out. There should be no apparent signs of mold on the inner paste and no off smelling odors.

Amazon is not carrying this cheese so you will need to search it out in a good local cheese shop, Whole Foods or Wegmans. Cornish Yarg is usually distributed by England's Neal"s Yard Dairy so you may find it easier if you ask your cheese monger what brands of Neal's Yard cheese they carry.

Wine Paring: Dry white wines like California Chardonnay or German Riesling. It also goes well with a pint of English ale.