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Saturday, December 31, 2011

Gorgonzola Italy's Most Famous Blue Cheese

A large wedge of blue veined Gorgonzola cheeseGorgonzola  cheese is produced only in the Lombardy and Piedmont regions of Italy. It is a pasteurized cow's milk cheese with an inedible outer rind. The history of Gorgonzola cheese starts with the town of Gorgonzola in Lombardy where herdsmen rested their cows on the trek back home form their Alpine pastures. Here milk was traded and the surplus converted into cheese. Some of the Gorgonzola that arrives in the US is still made by small artisan dairies but the bulk of the production is made by lager scale facilities in both the Piedmont and Lombardy regions. This cheese comes in two forms Dolce (sweet) and Naturale or Mountain (Spicy). Both forms are made in the same way, the only difference between them is the amount of time that they are allowed to age.

Gorgonzola is made by layering the dried curds form the evening milking and the next mornings milking. The bluing originally occurred naturally in the caves were the cheeses were left to age. Over time it was noticed that by piercing the young cheeses  the blue veins would grow more pronounced and that the bluing would proceed faster. Now penicillium gorgonzola is introduced into the curds before they are formed and set out in caves to age. After about one month the young cheeses are pierced with needles to allow oxygen to enter and accelerate the blue veining. 

Dolce (sweet) Gorgonzola is aged for 2 to 3 months and during this time its thin outer rind will have been washed several times with a brine solution. At this stage the cheeses are quite fragile and must be handled carefully to avoid damaging them. The aged cheese wheels are then cut in half horizontally and wrapped in a protective foil to keep air away from the surface of the cheese. The Dolce version  will be moist and have an open texture, the interior paste will be have a light yellowish color and blue-green veins throughout. The outer rind as stated above is thin and will have a very light brick color. The flavor and aroma are mild and milky with a slight salty and lactic tang on the finish. This version provides a great introduction to the world of blue cheeses.

Naturale (mountain) Gorgonzola is aged from 3 to 12 months and has also been washed frequently with brine during the aging process. The longer aging process allows a thicker rind to form that can  be handled easier and also creates a dry interior paste along with deep and dark blue veining. The flavor of  mountain Gorgonzola will be powerful and spicy with an earthy flavor and  the interior paste will be dense but smooth and may have crunchy amino acid crystals. As the cheese ages the darker the interior paste becomes and the stronger the flavor will be. Be forewarned this cheese with have a heavy cheesy aroma but it will not be overly offensive. This cheese will be heavenly for any blue cheese lover.

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When shopping for Gorgonzola always check to see if the inner paste looks pink or gray or looks dried out or if it is oozy. Be sure to ask for a sample to see which age agrees better with you. Gorgonzola can be purchased online at Amazon or in specialty cheese shops. If you can not find an agreeable Gorgonzola you can substitute Stilton.

Gorgonzola is wonderful crumbled in a garden salad and melted over burgers or roasted potatoes. Mixed with Crème Fraiche it makes an excellent salad dressing.

Wine Pairing:  Italian reds like Amorone, Barolo, Brunello,Chianti Reserva, or a Marsala.

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Humbolt Fog An Iconic American Goat Cheese

A wedge of Humbolt Fog cheese on a white plate.Cypress Grove Creamery's Humbolt Fog is a soft pasteurized  mold ripened goat cheese produced in Arcata, Humbolt County, California and is named after the fog that rolls in from Humbolt Bay. This cheese has been around for awhile and I am sorry that I have not written about it sooner but other writers have written reviews and have made the case for trying this great cheese. In my travels I recently revisited this cheese and I decided that I will add my accolades for this great cheese to the ones already out there. So here it goes.

 Details: Humbolt Fog as stated above is an aged goat cheese, it has an edible bloomy white rind and an ash line going through the center. The cheese molds are filled half way then a layer of White Pine ash and salt is added then the molds are topped off with more of the curds. This procedure is a tip of the hat to the French cow's milk  cheese Morbier. The ash layer does not impart any flavor but it does make a distinctive and eye catching presentation when the cheese is cut. The ash is also used to coat the finished cheese before it begins forming the blooming white mold rind during the aging process. As the cheese ripens from the outer layer to its core the cheese will become a bit oozy. The top most layer will be runny and the inner core will stay somewhat compact. As the cheese ages the oozy layer near the rind will begin to thicken as the core gets softer so there is a continuous transformation of texture and flavor.

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Flavor:Speaking of flavor, Humbolt Fog does not let you down. It is not overly goaty and it has a buttery flavor but also has a subtle tang on the finish. The flavor will be stronger at the center but it is not overpowering. A perfectly aged Humbolt Fog will have a hint of the salt and will not have a mild soapy flavor at the core.

Serve Humbolt Fog at room temperature but beware the longer you leave it out the runnier it will become. However scooping up a puddle of heavenly cheese is not a task that you or your guests will frown upon.
With that said only take out a portion of the cheese that you think you will use at the time you will be serving it. As a nice mid-meal snack serve it with sliced apples and pears drizzled with honey, also try it paired with walnuts and cranberries.Cypress Grove's Humbolt Fog will pair well with earthy flavors such as mushrooms or potatoes.

This cheese needs to breathe so only wrap it in wax paper, never use plastic wrap and always rewrap it in a new sheet of wax paper.

Wine Parings: White wines from California, Chenin Blanc, Piont Grigio, Sancerre and Sauvignon Blanc,
     

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Roncal Cheese A Distinctive Spanish Original


A photo of a wheel of Roncal cheese
Roncal is produced in the Navarra province from the milk of the Latcha and Aragonesa breeds of sheep. Roncal gets it's name from the Roncal valley. The valley is in the Pyrenees mountains and home to seven villages that work cooperatively to make this cheese. The herdsmen from these villages allow their flocks to graze in the lush mountains during the spring and early summer. The milk that is produced is sweet and high in butterfat and creates an exceptionally wonderful cheese. In 1981 Roncal was honored by being the first Spanish cheese to receive the D.O. (Denominacion de Origen).

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Details:  Roncal is an uncooked sheep's milk cheese that has a pressed natural (inedible) rind. It is usually aged for a minimum of 4 months although, some are aged up to 8 months. The aging process yields cheeses with firm beige or reddish brown rinds that may have spots of gray mold on them. The interior paste is light yellow and will have small holes or what appear to be cracks. When cut and allowed to stand a bit of butterfat may weep out, this is not a sign of a cheese gone bad but is a sign of the richness of the cheese. The younger cheese will be moist with a smooth olive flavor, as it ages longer the paste will turn amber and will develop a more meaty flavor that is nutty and savory with a very slight tang. Roncal is available all year but if your cheese monger happens to get a fresh supply around October through December the cheese will have a wonderful aroma of cut hay. If you are getting bored with Manchego  Roncal is a perfect substitute, this is a great sheep milk cheese that will please your taste buds.


When shopping for this cheese look for cheeses that are not discolored or dried out.  Please note that mold on the rind is perfectly OK but mold in the interior is a sign of a cheese that should not be purchased. You can find Roncal in both pasteurized and raw milk versions, we suggest purchasing the raw milk one because of its superior depth of flavor.

You can serve Roncal with fruit, raw vegetables and cured pork. It also works well as a grating cheese for soups, casseroles or pasta dishes.

Wine Pairing: Any Navarra reds, Rioja or Ribera del Duero for the aged cheese, and for the younger one a light Navarra , dry sherry, or a sparkling Cava.

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Thursday, September 29, 2011

A quick Recipe For French Brie And Broccoli Soup

A photo of a bowl of Brie and Broccoli soup
This Brie soup is warm and hearty and is perfect for the upcoming winter months. I think that this is a novel way to use Brie and it should open up  new directions for incorporating it into your meals. This soup can be served as a first course to a meal or as a meal by itself. 

Broccoli And Brie Soup

INGREDIENTS
  Serves 4
1 1/2 lbs of Broccoli florets
2 tablespoons of unsalted butter
1  fresh small yellow onion, finely diced
1 clove of garlic, grated
2 tablespoons of unbleached all-purpose flour
2 1/4 cups of low sodium  organic chicken or vegetable broth
2 1/4 cups of whole milk
6 oz of Brie (use the best brand that you can find ie Rouzaire, Brie de Meaux, Isigny)
1/4 cup of heavy cream

COOKING

1) Finely chop all of the broccoli in a food processor. Then set the chopped broccoli aside

2) In a large soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and season lightly with salt. Sweat the onions over medium heat for 2 minutes or until they just turn soft.

3) Add the broccoli and grated garlic to the onions. Season the mixture with salt and black pepper to taste. Lower the heat to low and cook covered for 5 minutes.

4) Remove the lid from the pot and stir in the 2 tbs of flour until it is completely distributed, Cook and additional 2 minutes while stirring continuously.

5) Add the broth and the milk. Raise the heat to high until the liquid begins to boil. Immediately reduce the heat to low, cover the pot again and simmer for 15 minutes or until the broccoli is completely cooked but not mushy.

6) Cut the rind off the Brie and then cut it into small pieces. Add the cut up Brie and cream to the pot. Cover and cook over the lowest heat for 2 minutes or until the cheese is fully melted. Use a whisk to blend the melted cheese into the soup. Remove from the heat and serve immediately.

Serve with garlic baguettes

Wine Pairing:  Big reds like Bordeaux or Burgundy

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Grayson Cheese The American Taleggio

a cut piece of ripe Grayson cheese on a wooden cutting board.
Grayson  is not a unique cheese but it is one of the excellent newer arrivals in the renaissance of American cheese making. It is produced by the Meadow Creek Dairy located in the southwestern mountains of Virginia. This area of Virginia is well known for its mineral rich soil, pure air and pristine water, these elements form the backbone of the dairy and agriculture production.

Details: Grayson is an American "stinky cheese" that is  strictly seasonally produced so the milking process begins in early March and continues until early winter with the last milking day being Christmas Eve. The raw milk used to make Grayson comes from a free ranging, closed herd of Jersey cows that graze on mixture of perennial grasses, grains and iodine rich Norwegian kelp.

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This cheese is based on the recipe for the popular Italian cheese Taleggio but it has its own signature due to its longer aging process (60 days) and the type of raw milk that is used to produce it. However like Taleggio it is formed into squares that weigh about 5 pounds. Grayson is a surface ripened, washed rind raw milk cheese so it will have a moderate stink factor however this will begin to disappear when the cheese is cut and allowed to breathe. Its edible washed rind  is well formed with a deep red color and is soft and pliant to the touch. The inner paste has a light yellow or straw color and when ripe will be bulgy or slightly oozy like brie. Grayson is a nice substitute for Brie and a nice introduction to Taleggio.

Flavor: Grayson's flavor profile is rich and beefy, slightly salty with a nutty sweet buttery finish.

Serve Grayson as a dessert course drizzled with honey, spread on crusty bread, or with dried fruit or sweet melons. It can also stand on its own so it can be used as a table cheese and can be substitute for Taleggio or Brie in your recipes. Please remember that this is a seasonally produced cheese so is may be hard to find, but when you do find it you will be rewarded with an excellent example of American cheese making.

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Store Grayson in the vegetable bin of your refrigerator wrapped in wax paper and placed in a zip lock bag. If any mold should form in its rind or inner paste simply cut or scrape it off .When shopping for this cheese do not purchase  any that look very runny or smell like ammonia another sign of abuse is a dried out looking cheese.

Wine Pairing: Malbec, Albarino, Cabernet or Gewurztraminer Grayson also pairs well with beer

Friday, August 26, 2011

Stilton Blue Cheese England's King Of Cheeses

 
A photo of a wedge of English Stilton Blue Cheese
When you are considering the purchase of blue cheese you may want to investigate English Stilton blue cheese. This great blue cheese is usually overlooked and under appreciated by cheese buyers because Roquefort, Cabrales, Valdeon and Gorgonzola get all the attention. So we would like to shine a bright light on the magnificent Stilton blue cheese which is well known as the English holiday cheese. It is thought that this tradition is based around Stilton's yearly arrival in stores during the early fall and the Christmas holidays.

Stilton is known as the King of English Cheeses, and is only made in Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire. It is the only English cheese protected by a certificated trade mark. The British name certification insures that the milk and the cheese manufacturing must be done in the above listed counties and that the production recipe and aging process must adhere to the guidelines established by the Stilton Cheese Makers’ Association/

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Details: Stilton is a pasteurized, firm cow’s milk cheese with a natural brushed inedible rind. It has a dry rough or gritty brownish rind and an ivory colored interior paste that has large amounts of greenish-blue veins .The production of Stilton begins when a culture of Penicillium Roquefortii is added to the milk and the starter, the rennet is added a short time later. After cutting, draining, milling and salting the curds, then shaping ( into cylinders) and turning by hand, the cheeses are stored in precise conditions of temperature and humidity to produce the characteristic crust and veining. The veining is created by inserting steel needles to aid in the aeration and mold growth. The cylinders are then aged for a minimum of six months, however the best Stilton's are aged for at least12 months and have a fat content of about 55%



Well aged Stilton's exhibit an inner paste that has a crumbly yet moist and creamy texture a spicy aroma and a sharp tangy flavor. This wonderful cheese should be savored at the end of a meal with a hearty bread and red wine. Any leftovers can be added to Crème Fraiche to create a tasty spread. Try to remember that this is a strong cheese and it will overpower most other cheeses. So, when using it on a cheese platter or at a cheese tasting serve it at the end of the line. If you can not find Stilton three good substitutes are Gorgonzola, Maytag Blue and English Shropshire Blue which the same characteristics as Stilton except that an orange color instead of white.

When shopping for Stilton avoid any that have gray interior paste or that fall apart when cut. Ask your cheese monger to cut your cheese in layers not wedges, this will add eye appeal to your table setting. The condition of the outer rind will usually look unsightly but this is not really important and should not hinder you from purchasing it. Stilton should be covered with a clean damp cotton cloth and then wrapped with aluminum foil and kept in the vegetable bin in the refrigerator. If fuzzy mold develops on the rind just scrape it off . Stilton can usually be found in good cheese shops or online at Amazon. Stilton Blue Cheese

For some really great recipes using Stilton cheese check out the link.


The best brands to purchase are, Long Clawson Dairy, Cropwell Bishop Creamery, Colston Bassett and Thomas Hoe Stevenson all are readily available here in  the United States. The Long Clawson Dairy also produces a great cheese named Huntsman  which is made by cutting out sections of Double Gloucester and filling them with Stilton. 

Wine parings: All big reds, Bordeaux, Cotes-du Rhone, Sherry, a good tawny Port or Madeira, also try it with a good hearty English or Irish Beer.

                                                               

Thursday, August 25, 2011

Comte France's Answer To Gruyere




Two wedges of French Comte on a cutting board
Comte (cone-tay) is in reality the French equivalent of Swiss Gruyere, in fact it is often called Gruyere de Comte or French Gruyere.

The major difference between French Comte and Swiss Gruyere is that Swiss Gruyere is aged for only three months while the French Comte is aged for a minimum of six months and is often aged for twelve months. This longer aging process brings out a bolder and richer flavor.


Details: This great French cheese is produced in the Franche-Comte region which encompasses the three departments of Jura, Doubs and Haute-Salone. This mountainous region borders the Swiss Alps and the cheeses that are produced there are considered to be Alpine cheeses. The dairy cows in these alpine pastures graze on grass and mountain flowers which  produces the grassy, herbaceous flavors and aromas of the cheeses that are produced there. 

All French Comte is AOC name controlled to assure that only milk from this regions’ dairies is used to produce it. Comte is not produced on a large scale or in cheese factories but continues to made by small local dairies that make about six to seven 80lb wheels per day. This low volume ensures attention to detail and consistent high quality cheeses.

Flavor: Comte is an unpasteurized pressed, cooked curd cheese that has an inedible natural brushed rind. The interior paste will have small pea sized holes through out and will have a yellowish to ivory color. Comte"s flavor will have hints of hazelnuts and grassy herbs. The flavor and aroma will increase as the cheese ages so try to find one that has been aged at least 12 months. 

 Comte, as with many hard Alpine cheeses, is hard to abuse and will hold up well in the refrigerator. When shopping for Comte do not purchase any that is moldy, dried out or has a cracked rind. Always look for the bell symbol and the name Comte stamped in green on the rind. However, a lot of the Comte coming into the US now has a white and green paper label attached to the cheese with the name Comte AOC printed in Green on it. 

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Comte is a versatile cheese that goes well with salads and sliced for sandwiches. It is also great for lunch served with salami and crusty bread and as a dessert course served with fresh fruit. Comte also melts well so use it with baked potatoes or rice dishes or on paninis. Or try this great salad recipe.

Wine parings: Big French reds like Cotes du Rhone, Burgundies and fruity reds like Beaujolais

Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Italian Pecorino Toscano Cheese And Pasta Recipe

A photo of aPecorino Toscano and pasta recipe
Pecorino Toscano is not usually thought of when people talk about pasta and cheese, but this is unfortunate because this cheese will seductively impart its sheep flavor into the pasta. The following Pecorino Toscano recipe is not fancy or flashy but it is great for family dinners or a quick meal when friends get together. Try it and enjoy it and when someone asks about the slightly different twist to the flavor of your pasta tell them about your new grating cheese Pecorino Toscano.

                                                                            

Prep Time: 10 min Cooking Time: 12 min   Serves:  4

Ingredients

1 lb package of  Angel Hair Pasta

1 Tbs of extra virgin olive oil

1/4 tsp of parsley

 1 tsp of ground black pepper

 2 cups of Cherry Tomatoes sliced in half or quarters

 1/3 cup of finely grated Pecorino Toscano cheese

1 fresh green pepper diced

1 fresh red pepper diced

2 cups of quartered and drained artichokes



                                                         Cooking Directions

1) Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil and cook pasta according to the package directions, then strain the pasta but save 1/2 cup of the water and set it aside

2) Saute the olive oil, artichokes and peppers in a large skillet over medium heat and slowly add the black pepper and parsley. After two minutes add the sliced tomatoes and heat for an extra 30 seconds.

3) Pour the saved water into the skillet, then add the cooked pasta and stir. Heat this mixture for another three minutes (or until the water absorbs) and add salt to taste. Next sprinkle in the Pecorino Toscano cheese and toss until the cheese melts.

4) Serve with a fresh green salad.

Wine Pairing: Big reds like Chianti, Brunello or Lungarotti

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Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Morbier A Classic French Cheese


A photo of a wheel of Morbier cheese with a wedge cut out
Morbier is a cow's milk cheese that is named after the town of Morbier. .Morbier produced in the Jura region and has been given AOC (Appellation d'Origine Controlle) name control. It is defined by the thin dark layer of vegetable ash through the center of the paste. This cheese's origin is very humble and it's creation may even be considered to be an afterthought. Traditionally, during the production of Comte some curd would be left over and to preserve it for the next day. The cheese makers would press the curds in the molds and then cover them with vegetable ash to prevent the formation of a rind. The following day new curd would be placed on top of the ash layer forming a complete wheel of cheese. The wheels were then lightly pressed and washed with brine to form the rind. The washing process creates a moist outer rind that has a pungent aroma. Yes this can be considered a "stinky cheese". Today Morbier is made from only one days production and the ash layer is added to keep the traditional appearance alive. The finished wheels are then aged for a least 60 days.

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Morbier is sold in the United States as both a raw milk and pasteurized cheese. The raw milk version has much more flavor and is the much better choice. Both versions should have a paper label on them that notes that  it is Jura Morbier. This cheese has a smooth, moist, yellow rind that is inedible. Once you get past the moderate stink factor the inner paste is light yellow and semi-soft with a buttery mild flavor, a nutty finish and a slight tang. The ash layer is plainly visible through the center of the cheese but does not impart any flavor to the cheese. Do not let the smell of this cheese stop you from trying it, be bold and you will be rewarded by it's wonderful flavor.

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When shopping for this cheese always stay away from those that appear to have a cracked rind, a dry looking inner paste or look slimy. Morbier does have a moderate stink factor but stay away from any that smell rancid or like ammonia.

Serve Morbier with sandwich meats on crusty bread or melt it over potatoes or rice dishes. It is also a nice alternative for fondue and cheeseburgers.

Store this cheese in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator wrapped in aluminum foil and placed in a Ziploc bag.
 
Wine Paring: A good Pinot Noir, cru Beaujolais or Gewürztraminer.