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Monday, August 1, 2011

Serra da Estrela The King Of Portuguese Cheese



a young and oozy version of Serra da Estrela cheese
A photo of a wedge of aged Serra da Estrela cheeseSerra da Estrela is a sheep's milk cheese that has been made for centuries by the shepherds in the Portuguese province of Beira. The sheep here graze in this mountainous region on wild flowers brambles and grass and produce a milk that is thick and aromatic. This cheese has been given D.O.P certification and is made under stringent rules that govern it's area and method of production.

Details:  The methods of production may seem archaic but they allow for the creation of a truly magnificent cheese. First, the raw milk is coagulated with cardoon thistle and salt no animal rennet is used. The newly formed curds are separated by hand and allowed to dry and age for a minimum of thirty days. This process produces small quantities of a cheese that has a soft, smooth, thin, straw colored rind. The young cheeses will have a white or slight yellow interior paste that is gooey or runny but as it ages it will become firmer but not hard. This cheese is, for the most part, spreadable but traditionally the thin rind is cut open and the soft paste is scooped out with pieces of bread.

Flavor: It has an herbaceous flavor and a finish that has hints of burnt toffee This flavor is enhanced as the cheese ages. It should be noted that the cardoon thistle imparts a somewhat bitter flavor but it is not overpowering or unpleasant.

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When shopping for this cheese you will find it wrapped in cloth giving it a very artisinal appearance and each small cheese will weigh about 2 pounds. However it will most likely not be available for sampling so look for signs of dryness or cracking in the rind as these are signs that it is too old. Serra da Estrela is only produced from November to March so it will be difficult to find as it sells out quickly. Serra da Estrela can be purchased at Whole Foods or Wegmans.

Wine Pairing: Light crisp Portuguese whites or soft to medium bodied Portuguese reds.
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Thursday, July 14, 2011

Italian Ubriaco di Raboso The Drunken Cow Cheese


a wheel ofubriaco di raboso cheeses with a wedge cut out
Ubriaco di Raboso is a wine soaked cow's milk cheese that is made only in the Treviso region of Italy. The English translation of ubriaco is drunk or drunken and this cheese can be thought of as the "Drunken Cow" cheese with an obvious nod to the Spanish "Drunken Goat" cheese. As legend has it the origins of this cheese go back to World War 1 when Italian farmers in the Piave River area hid their wheels of cheese in barrels of fermenting grape juice to prevent invading armies from stealing them. Today the Master Affineur Antoinio Carpenedo and his company La Casearia Carpenedo has brought the legend to reality with this masterful cheese.

Details: This is a semi-hard raw cow's milk cheese that is pressed but not cooked. It is aged for six months in Mr.Carpenedo's cellars and them immersed in Raboso grape must for several weeks. During the immersion period the cheese absorbs the grape must flavor, aroma and its deep ruby red color. The resulting cheese has a pale yellow interior paste with small holes and hints of red color at the inner surface of the rind. 

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Flavor:The flavor has hints of black berries and sour cherries and finishes with a pleasant mild peppery zing.
This is a wonderful table cheese that should be served with a meal as a cheese course. It also shines as an addition to salads, thinly sliced and added to a roasted vegetable sandwich or served with grapes or figs and a crusty bread. You should store this cheese in the lowest area of your refrigerator wrapped in waxed paper or aluminum foil.

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Wine Paring: Merlot, Cabernet, Fragola, Sauvignon or Verduzzo It is perfect with the bubbly Prosecco
 
For information on other La Casearia Brand cheeses go to :
http://www.lacasearia.com
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Tuesday, July 12, 2011

Roaring 40s Blue Cheese An Australian Masterpiece

A photo of cut pieces of Roaring 40's blue cheeseRoaring 40s Blue is produced in Australia. Unlike typical French blue cheeses (Roquefort) made from sheep’s milk. This is made entirely from cow's milk which gives it a somewhat milder flavor. The King Island dairy herds that produce the milk for this cheese graze on verdant, dense pastures, supplementing their rich diet occasionally with a helping of kelp that is washed up after heavy storms. So legend has it that the name of this cheese comes from the "Roaring 40's" storms that often hit the coast.

This blue cheese is full flavored and has a beige inner paste that produces a buttery smooth, nutty flavor. The waxed inedible rind helps to promote a sweetness and creamy texture in this cheese and prevents the moldy taste that some other blue cheeses present. King Island dariy's Roaring 40's blue cheese is the current Champion Blue cheese AGDA 2010 and Gold Medal winner.

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This blue cheese is full flavored and has a yellow beige inner paste that produces a buttery smooth, nutty flavor and a dark blue wax outer rind. Allow Roaring Forties to fully come to room temperature and enjoy its creamy texture with a fresh baguette, red grapes, figs and walnut


Wine Paring: Australian sweet whites like Sauterne and big Australian reds

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Gjetost An Interesting Norwegian Goat Cheese

A photo of the Ekte version of Gjetost cheeseA photo of Gjetost cheese showing the Ekto and Ski Queen versionsGjetost is a sweet brown Norwegian cheese made from pure goat's milk or a mixture of cow and goat milk. In most respects this is not really cheese, so a little background on how it is made will shed a little light on what we mean. Gjetost is made by slow cooking the milk until it is caramelized thus removing most of the water, the resulting "curd" is then pressed into block molds to remove any left over water, at this point it is ready for sale or to eat. It should be noted that this process has essentially created milk sugar and gives the "cheese" it's brown color, fudge-like texture and overt sweetness. Since there is no aging process the flavor of fresh goat's milk is still noticeable. The flavor as noted above is sweet (maybe too sweet for some) and can be considered an acquired taste. It has a mouth feel like fudge, hence the name "fudge cheese", with a caramel flavor but the goat tang still filters through. The aroma has been described as slightly fishy to barnyard to goaty but not offensive or overpowering.

When shopping for this Norwegian novelty look for the Ekte Gjetost if you want the pure goat milk style or the red box (sometimes labeled as Ski Queen ) for the mixed milk variety and can also be found in 9lb blocks which can be cut to order. Gjetost can be ordered online at Amazon.

You can serve this in the morning thinly sliced on bread or toast with coffee or with sweet fruits like grapes or pears as a snack. This is best cut thinly with a cheese plane not a knife.

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Wine Pairing: It would be hard to recommend any particular wine to go with this since it is a bit unique but it does appear to go well with beefy lagers or maybe a good Irish Stout.


Thursday, July 7, 2011

Italian Provolone Cheese Sophisticated Simplicity

A photo of several large wheels of Provolone cheeseItalian Provolone bears little resemblance to the pitiful, tasteless factory made version we often see here in the United States. It is the most popular cheese in Italy and it is found in almost every home there. Provolone has DOP certification but is made in all the regions of Italy and comes in all shapes and sizes. Provolone is a firm cow's milk cheese that been rubbed with brine and allowed to air dry in controlled temperatures and humidity. The fresh cheese, aged about one month, has almost no flavor or aroma. However this cheese is transformed once it is allowed to age further. The Dolce version is aged about three months and has a mildly sharp flavor for this reason it is popular as an addition to deli sandwiches here in the United States. The ten to twelve month aged cheese Picante has a sharp and aggressive flavor and the sixteen to eighteen month version has a very sharp and also hot taste that can overpower many accompaniments. There is a rare three year old Provolone that appears in some specialty cheese shops. This aged version is hard and flinty and can be grated. It has a very hot flavor and really spices up pasta dishes.  Also, as it ages Provolone will get firmer and a bit oily. The outer rind is formed by the constant rubbing of the fresh cheese with oil and brine this procedure creates a natural edible rind that has a medium yellow hue and a light yellow interior paste that will become darker as the cheese ages.

Provolone is usually pretty hard to abuse but when buying it look for dryness, cracking or a rancid odor as these are all signs of a bad investment. Also ask your cheese seller how long the piece you are buying has been aged because this will give you an idea about it's flavor. Also ask to taste a small piece since there is no sense in purchasing a picante version if you do not like sharp cheeses. The brands to look for here in the United States are Auricchio, Il Giardino but our favorite imported one is Albiero. The Alberio Dairy consistently produces superior quality products that reflect the family's dedication to the art of cheese making.

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You can serve dolce Provolone as a sandwich cheese, with raw vegetables, olives and sweet peppers in an antipasto or as a topping for pizza. Aged versions can be served as a table cheese or grated over pasta, meat or seafood dishes

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Wine Pairing: Since the simplicity of this cheese is it's strong point look for unpretentious Italian red wines like Chianti Classico. For aged versions look for bold Italian reds.

For information on other Alberio Brand cheeses go to: http://www.albiero.it/albieroeng.html

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Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Huntsman A Uniquely English Cheese

A photo of a wedge of five layer Huntsman Cheese on a wooden cheese board

Huntsman is a pasteurized cow's milk blue cheese made by the Long Clawson Dairy in England. It's name is trademarked but there a few imitators like Stilchester out there so always ask for the original. Huntsman is relatively new to the retail cheese world but it has acquired a large and devoted following. It is made by starting with a wheel of 36 month aged Double Gloucester and cutting out sections in the split wheel by hand. The cut out sections are then filled in by hand with 3 month aged Stilton blue cheese. This time consuming process yields a wonderful cheese that is quite unique. It presents a combination of the soft, assertive Stilton with the mild flavored, hard textured Double Gloucester. At first thought this combination really should not work, however one taste will quickly prove this line of thinking wrong.

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When shopping for Huntsman first look for the Long Clawson Dairy name, then make sure that the Stilton does not look gray or overly runny and that the Double Gloucester is not dry, cracked or moldy. You may find Huntsman in three or five layer versions, both are good but think of how you plan to serve them before making a purchase. The five layer version is a bit tall so it would work well for cheese plates and the three layer version works well for cooking.

Store Huntsman wrapped in waxed paper or tin foil and covered with plastic wrap and in a separated vegetable bin. This will prevent the strong Stilton aroma and it's mold from being transferred to other foods or cheeses.

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Huntsman is a great addition to a cheese board, it is also great melted over hamburgers, grilled steak and sliced into salads. It can be served by itself with fig paste and crusty bread as a midday snack.

Wine Pairing; Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc or sweet Ports it also pairs well with British Ales.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

English Double Gloucester Cheese Revisiting A Old Friend

a full wheel of Double Gloucester Cheese with it paper label
Double Gloucester is a mild cheddar-like English farmhouse cheese that has been produced since the 16th century. It is made from the morning and evening milkings then the whole milk and cream from these two milkings are poured and mixed together, rennet is then added to create the curd. The curd is lightly cooked, drained and then pressed in molds to remove any excess water and whey, the resulting cheeses are set to age for about six months. There are two versions of Double Gloucester, one is white and the other light orange, the orange color comes from the addition of annatto during the mixing stage. A hard natural rind is formed that can look unsightly but it is often covered by a cloth outer layer to help keep it dry. Farmhouse made Double Gloucester almost always comes cloth bound and is usually more expensive than the plain rind cheeses made by large dairies.This cheese is also used in the production of English Huntsman cheese.

 Tasting: The flavor of Double Gloucester depends on its age therefore the older it is the more flavor it will have. The inner paste is dense and hard but not overly dry. The outer rind, which is inedible, may have spots of mold on it but this is normal and should not be looked at as a cheese gone bad. It has a buttery rich taste with hints of citrus and onion, as it ages it with have a sharper flavor and a decidedly nutty finish. This cheese should be stored in a zip lock bag in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator, this way it should last about 2 - 3 weeks, any mold that might form on it can simply be scraped away.

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When buying Double Gloucester avoid any that look overly dry or cracked.

Serve Double Gloucester as a snack with fruit and crackers, try grating into salads or over baked potatoes and pasta, it also makes great grilled cheese sandwiches and paninis.

Wine Pairing: Try it with a good Rioja or Reisling, it also goes well with hearty beers and ales

Monday, July 4, 2011

Norwegian Jarlsberg Cheese

A photo of a wheel of Jarlsberg CheeseJarlsberg is one the most popular cheeses that are imported into the United States. This Norwegian cheese, named for the county that it is produced in, was created in 1956 from and an old 1830 Swiss recipe. Jarlsberg cheese was introduced to the world in 1961 and has become one of Norway's biggest exports throughout the world.

Jarlsberg is made from partially skimmed pasteurized cow's milk that is coagulated with animal rennet. Specially formulated bacterial cultures are added to the curds which are then pressed into cheese molds, salted, allowed to age from 1 to 15 months and then coated with an inedible yellow paraffin coating. All of these procedures are done under strict laboratory conditions and regulations. Most of the Jarlsberg that reaches our shores is aged about 3 months and has a semi-firm, smooth yellow paste that has many large and small holes throughout. 
The flavor is slightly nutty and salty with a sweet buttery smooth mouth feel. The overall flavor profile is not overly complex or strong. There is another version that is called Jarlsberg "Reserve" and it is aged from 12 to 15 months, this will have a bigger flavor and aroma, you will most likely have to ask for it by it's "Reserve" name.
When shopping for this cheese, do not purchase it if it looks dry, cracked or has any mold on it. Always try to get a small sample to taste to make sure it's flavor agrees with you.


This is a very nice cheese to use for grilled cheese sandwiches or thinly sliced on grilled meat sandwiches and hamburgers. As a snack cheese serve it with grapes or other semi-sweet fruits. Both the regular Jarlsberg and the Reserve can be purchased without the paraffin rind coating.

Wine Paring: Light spicy whites like Alsace Sylvanner or Treminer

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Feta Cheese Four Varities For You To Consider

A photo of a block and three slices of Feta cheese whithwine and condimentsSince Feta cheese is made in several countries it really deserves a category all to itself. The most widely found variety of Feta is from Greece but it is also produced throughout the Balkan countries, France and the United States. It is a young sheep milk cheese that is soaked in a brine solution which helps to stop the aging process.This way the cheese stays young and has a fresh flavor although it can be overly salty. If the cheese is too salty for your taste simply rinse off the brine water. Feta is a simple cheese that can be served with accompaniments like olives and a good hearty bread. It is also a great addition to salads. All of the varieties mentioned below are equally good so try them all and see which one you prefer. The brand names of Feta are not that important but try to find one that is imported.

Greek Feta is the best known and most popular. It is a young sheep milk cheese that tends to be crumbly and quite salty. The flavor is mild and the texture may seem to be a bit dry.

Bulgarian Feta is also made from sheep milk that has been soaked in brine but it is usually less salty and has a creamier texture and flavor than its Greek cousin.

French Feta cheese (Valbreso) is produced in the southwest regions near the Mediterranean Sea. Here sheep are free to graze on the area's wild and rugged plateaus and their milk is also used in the production of the world famous Roquefort blue cheese. The French version is similar to its Bulgarian counterpart in its texture and creaminess but its flavor has just a slight tang and is a bit less salty.

Most American Feta is produced in Wisconsin and is made from cow's milk. It is also put into a brine solution but it is less flavorful than it's sheep milk cousins. If you can find an American version that is made from goat's milk try it and you will notice a much more flavorful cheese.

Feta can be served crumbled in salads, melted into omelets or eaten with sweet fruits like grapes or in season melons.

Wine Paring: Serve it with a good dry Rose’ or a white wine like Sauvignon Blanc.